Joe Schutzman is a Newport firefighter who loves Northern Kentucky’s culture, sense of place – and beer. Find Joe’s previous columns and more on NKY dining here.
I’d like to start this article by talking a little bit about my restaurant industry experience and my culinary pedigree, so to speak. If I were to write you a resume, you’d see that I spent a little time in college working for the local bar and grill Barleycorn’s. And when I say a little time, I mean for one day…for one shift…for three hours…
I was hired as a part-time line cook. They let me make the salads. As you can probably piece together, salad assembly requires no actual cooking. I was merely supposed to be putting ingredients together in a bowl. Well, attempting to put them together is more like it. And while it was only three hours almost 15 years ago, it was three of the most stressful hours of my life, and I have never forgotten it.
I learned that evening I have no business working in that business, and since that day, I have always had an immense respect and admiration for folks that work in the bar and restaurant industry, front and back of house alike.
So while I must apologize for wasting the kitchen team’s time and slowing down their service that night, I’m sure we can both agree it was for the best that I never returned. And it turns out that Barleycorn’s not only survived without my help but has also been thriving ever since. Several years ago, they began their own in-house brewing operation and opened up Barleycorn’s Brewhouse. I went out there recently with my parents to try the beers and to see what’s changed since I was last there.
We did a flight of four beers, and I tried my best to select a wide smattering of choices to get a good sense of their beer program. If left to my own devices, I’d sit there all evening and sip weissbier. But I had a job to do, and for the sake of the reader, I dutifully labored on.
I’ve always been told that when tasting, whether wine or beer or anything really, it’s usually wise to begin with the lightest flavors and move upwards towards the boldest or strongest so as not to spoil your palate. It makes sense on paper, and it’s always worked for me.
We started the flight with their German lager, a helles, which they call “Helles Yeah.” Crisp, light, and refreshing. What’s more to say? The helles style is a classic for a reason. Next, we tried their weisbier, “Weiss Guy.” It is definitely an American-styled hefeweizen, a little lighter and less cloudy than a traditional German weis. It was a great beer, though, and it was my personal favorite of the flight. Next was their Irish Red Ale, “Wildfire Red Ale,” which offered notes of caramel and coffee.
Now, for folks who have read previous articles, you know my lifelong struggle to come around on the IPA bandwagon. However, I have found another IPA that I actually quite enjoyed, and it’s Barleycorn’s New England IPA called “Crazy Norse.” I’m not sure if this is technically a compliment or an insult to someone making an IPA, but Crazy Norse was surprisingly light and that is what I really loved about it. It retains the sweetness of the grapefruit notes signature to this style of beer without hammering you with the associated bitterness. So if you’re an adventurous beer drinker trying to push your limits on the bitter spectrum, this isn’t the beer for you, but if you, like me, are someone who wants to join the other cool kids who get IPAs but lack the personal fortitude and stoicism to keep from grimacing after each sip, this is the IPA for you.
Also, I know this isn’t a food blog, but I’d be remiss to not mention their wings. I recommend ordering them “Doc style,” which is their house-concocted double fry. They are clean, crisp, and exactly the savory crunch you want paired with a beer.
It does my heart such good to see all the growing local brewing efforts in our community. There are so many places to try that macro brews, in my opinion at least, are becoming practically obsolete. So next time you’re craving a beer and killer wings, head down to Barleycorn’s Brewhouse and drink local, and rest easy knowing I’m not in their kitchen anymore screwing up your side salad.
Barleycorn’s Brewhouse is located at 402 Licking Pike, Wilder