Beth McDaniel’s In Search of the Best column explores her adventures in food around Northern Kentucky as she looks for the best … everything! Find Beth’s previous columns plus more NKY dining news here.
With Halloween almost here and the dark chill of November not far off, you might find yourself in the mood for a little magic. And when it comes to dining, there’s something truly enchanting about an evening at the Baker’s Table.
No doubt, part of the magic is the spellbinding ambiance created by designer Wendy Braun, co-founder of the Baker’s Table and wife of Chef David Willocks. (Wendy is also the Keeper of Keys at Monmouth Street Mercantile, a sumptuous lifestyle boutique across the street. But more on that later.)
It takes a level of showmanship to pull off a good magic show, and you’ll find the performers at the Baker’s Table in fine form—charming but not at all pretentious.
Sidle up to the bar for a choose-your-own adventure evening, or take a seat in the dining room, and let Chef David et al dazzle you with a six-course tasting menu sure to charm even the most jaded diner.
Begin with a hand-crafted, seasonal cocktail (such as the apple pie) or enjoy a pairing of skillfully selected wines. Then arrives the first temptation—thick slices of rustic sourdough and creamy butter with flaked salt. You should savor it, but be sure to pace yourself. Dessert is still five courses away, and you want to arrive ready to enjoy every bite.
The menu at the Baker’s Table is seasonal and changes the first Wednesday of each month. When I dined there, I enjoyed the mid-fall menu, which featured satisfying seasonal dishes like roasted cabbage with thinly sliced apples and crunchy hazelnuts; soft, pillowy sweet potato gnocchi with crisp mushrooms; and a paw paw cream puff sitting on a swipe of the most wonderful salty, rich caramel sauce.
The desserts truly are to die for, and no one would blame you for falling under their spell, like a sweet siren song. I could imagine myself being called back to the bar just for dessert. Often.
The other bit of magic is that most of what you’re eating originates close by. How apropos that vegetables grown by Annie Woods at Dark Wood Farm are the muse that inspired Chef David to open the Baker’s Table, and that those earthen jewels continue to be a source of endless inspiration.
Other artisanal producers whose creations find a place on Chef David’s tables include Rose Hill Farm, Urban Stead and Janie’s Mill.
In my conversation with Chef David, he did not admit to sorcery. However, he described a process of “culinary conjuring” where he endeavors to inspire people with flavors and vegetables they’ve never experienced before.
There are some other, unseen aspects of Chef David’s approach that make it particularly charming and quite powerful as well: a livable wage, medical, and dental benefits for his team members and a plastic-wrap-free kitchen (achieved through the simple decision to purchase lids).
Chef David says that, above all, he endeavors to “Feed people with love and to make them feel comfortable and safe.” You can also rest assured that, whoever you are and whatever your dietary preferences or restrictions might be, you are welcome at the Baker’s Table.
Which brings us to the business of the bill. Paying is unlikely your favorite part of dinner, but hear me out. When I considered the way the Baker’s Table strives to care for people and the planet, I felt like I was putting my dollars toward a new world order. And when I thought of it that way, it felt surprisingly satisfying.
Now, back to that bread for a moment. It’s baked across the street in the building that used to house the Baker’s Table Bakery and is now the site of wife Wendy Braun’s enchanting new enterprise, Monmouth Street Mercantile, which she co-creates with partner, Tatum Davis (also known as the Goddess of Goods).
While Chef David charms with his Farm-to-Table fare, his wife and business partner, Wendy Braun, invites you into a beautiful fairytale at Monmouth Street Mercantile. Wander in and find the perfect gift, a revelatory book, or reserve a private Tarot reading.
You can also order and pick up Baker’s Table sourdough at Monmouth Street on Saturdays from 11-1, which means that you really don’t have to eat it all if you’re worried about leaving room for dessert.
And, if you have a desire to learn the art of bread-making yourself, look for Chef David’s new book and video series—”Baker’s Table Sourdough: Unlocking the Secrets of Artisan Bread at Home”—out this holiday season.
The Baker’s Table is located at 1004 Monmouth St. in Newport. Open for dinner only Wednesday-Thursday 5-9 p.m. and Friday-Saturday 5-10 p.m. Reservations strongly recommended.
Monmouth St. Mercantile is located across the street at 1001 Monmouth St. Hours are Wednesday-Thursday 10 a.m.-3 p.m. and Friday-Saturday 10 a.m.-4 p.m.