Joe Schutzman is a Newport firefighter who loves Northern Kentucky’s culture, sense of place – and beer. Find Joe’s previous columns and more on NKY dining here.
It’s no mystery why Herb and Thelma’s is a Northern Kentucky institution. A family-run small business, it’s a beautiful amalgamation of unassuming dive and community cornerstone, operating since 1939. And personally, it checks every single one of my boxes for “a killer spot to grab a beer.”
It’s a rare neighborhood gem, the cool spot, and you’re invited! The first-timer and the seasoned patron alike are greeted with the same hospitable familiarity as if they were coming over to a backyard get-together. You bring the cash; they’ll provide the beer. And I say cash because that is the only currency accepted at Herb and Thelma’s. But not to worry, there’s an ATM in the corner for the uninitiated, or for when you’re out and about and a friend invites you for an impromptu beer.
But before we get into the beer, I have to talk about their burgers. If authenticity had an aroma, it would be the scent of their burgers sizzling on the grill, permeating the entire bar, beckoning passersby to stop in and see what the enticing smell is all about. Simply put, and without a single hint of hyperbole, a Herb and Thelma’s burger with a cold beer is the combination dreams are made of.
While I have not discovered a particular rhyme or reason to their rotating beer taps, they regularly offer different selections of some seriously fabulous beer. Lately, I have been enjoying Weinstephaner’s festbier there, and on my last visit, they had Hofbräu’s doppelbock, Delicator, on tap. This was my first time trying it, and it did not disappoint.
I only recently discovered my affinity for doppelbocks within the last year, and for those, like me, who aren’t familiar, these beers are not to be trifled with. They punch high above their weight class with an ABV that’s usually 8% plus. My good friend Zach can attest to this, as he ended up calling for a ride home the other week after only two beers, responsibly leaving his car overnight.
Herb and Thelma’s have even featured a keg of my absolute favorite beer in the world, Schneider Weisse’s Tap 7 Original! For folks who have perused previous articles of mine, this is already common knowledge, but please know I will seize any opportunity to tell someone how much I love this beer. I’m not beyond going door to door in suit and tie asking, “do you have a moment to talk about my favorite beer makers George Schneider and Sons?”
Besides a rotating cast of lovely German beers, they are also known to offer some throwbacks, such as Narragansett (any Jaws fans out there?) and all the macro domestics one can expect of a neighborhood joint.
And speaking of macro domestics, I must regretfully admit to you now one of my countless shortcomings. I have, on occasion, allowed myself to be a little “holier-than-thou” when it comes to things I’m passionate about, beer very much amongst them. It is a loathsome quality and one that I assure you, I actively work to quell. And like most snobs, I don’t possess any particular wealth of knowledge qualifying me to hold such zealous opinions.
My best friend, Max, reminded me of this while we shared a beer together on a recent Saturday afternoon. I was allowing that inner cantankerous voice to speak for me, and he quickly humbled me with his signature sage as he quipped, “he, amongst us who has not crushed a miller lite, cast the first stone.” A good friend will always recognize when you’re acting too big for your britches and will kindly bring you back down to Earth.
So it doesn’t matter if you’re looking for a bottle of Budweiser or something a little more complex. Everyone is welcome here. I once witnessed a group of regulars move spots and take it upon themselves to put several tables together to accommodate an incoming group of cyclists stopping by for a quick drink. That’s the culture here. So come on in and hang out for a while. Do yourself a favor, and get down to Herb and Thelma’s for a great beer and the best burger of your life. And please, when you go, do me a favor and ask Ethan behind the bar to reorder Schneider Weiss and have it back on tap!