Will Johnson is a member of the LINK nky editorial board, and he loves, loves, LOVES french fries. Find Will’s previous columns and more on NKY dining here.
The only thing better than a good french fry is a great french fry. But where have all the great fries gone? That’s where we come in. Every month for the next year, we will be visiting spots throughout Northern Kentucky and Greater Cincinnati to uncover the crispiest, saltiest, most mouthwatering fries the region has to offer.
Whether they are curly, hand-cut, fried in duck fat, or sprinkled in extra seasoning, we are on a mission to identify the best of the best. We’re ready to do the hard work so you don’t have to.
We are the Fry Guys. And we are reporting for duty.
Location
This month, we’re visiting The 859 Taproom Bar and Grill in Florence. 859 has been in business since 2019 and is famous for housing one of Northern Kentucky’s largest beer walls (with more than 60 craft beers on tap) and a bourbon selection that includes over 150 varieties.
Those options are impressive, but 859 SHOULD be best known for having the audacity to offer Grippo dusted pork rinds as an appetizer. I don’t know who’s in charge of the kitchen, but I know the American Heart Association hates to see them coming. Just reading the menu elevated my cholesterol. Phil and I obviously ordered the rinds and did not regret it. 15/10 wholeheartedly recommended.
Ambiance
The 859 balances polish and comfort. It’s well furnished with approximately 20 televisions for all your viewing needs. The space is large (without feeling overwhelming), includes a bar with ample seating, and features a spacious patio that remains open year-round.
What do the Fry Guys think?
“The 859 is big enough that I watched Phil scan the bar nine times before spotting me waving maniacally,” said Will.
“A text would have been appreciated,” said Phil.
Appearance
The fries were standard cut and fried to perfection. I have always believed a great fry doesn’t require anything other than proper seasoning. So, I was happy to see these were visibly salted. Our fries arrived in a hip metal basket that added a touch of class that was wasted on uncultured hacks like us.
What do the Fry Guys think?
“I felt like Vivian Ward in ‘Pretty Woman’ trying to figure out which fork to use. I do not deserve the finer things,” said Will.
“I never imagined I’d be eating fries out of a tiny little grocery cart without the wheels and liking it,” said Phil.
Taste and Texture
The fries were perfectly tender and arrived hotter than stolen intellectual property.
What do the Fry Guys think?
“Gen Z said it best. These are a ‘major dub,’” said Will.
“Seat me at the bar with a few beers and I’ll go through three orders of these fries easily. Wait… what did you just say?” said Phil.
Value and Experience
We ordered a couple of $15 burgers to go with our fries. Phil selected the Bacon Pimento Burger with onion straws and southwest ranch. I went with the Wildcat Blue featuring blackened seasoning and bleu cheese crumbles. Both were messier than a Bravo reunion special and equally delicious. A side of fries was just $3. We were the opposite of upset.
What do the Fry Guys think?
“We arrived on Trivia Night. So, we saw the bar while it was jumping. I also learned Phil knows way too much about the Ptolemaic era,” said Will.
“Most of what I know about ancient Egypt, I learned from cartoons and Brendan Fraser’s ‘The Mummy’ movie,” said Phil.
Final Verdict
“I live 10 minutes away and was the one who told you about this place. My wife and I might be back here this weekend,” said Phil.
“That beer wall is calling my name. There’s two other burgers I want to try. The fries delivered. And we need to form a trivia team called Rind Over Matter. I’m in,” said Will.
The 859 Taproom Bar and Grill
Address: 8720 Bankers St., Florence, KY 41042
Hours: Tues-Thurs: 4 PM – 10 PM | Fri & Sat 11 AM – 11 PM | Sun 11 AM – 9 PM
Phone: (859) 534-2802
Website: the859taproom.com